Wednesday, February 26, 2014

Colette Anise and Burda Mash Up

Because making one pattern isn't challenging enough, I made two together. That's the way I roll my friends!
I am quite in love with this new jacket even though the amount of work that went into it was a little ridiculous!

 
Speaking of ridiculous, it was 34 degrees with insane humidity when I snapped these photos today. Crazy!! I even put on jeans and enclosed shoes to complete the look.
Then added a scarf for more wintery theming! Needless to say, this was a very brief photo shoot!
 

Back to the jacket. While I like the Colette Anise pattern, I really don't like peter pan collars on me. I do however, adore the collar from Burda 09/2009 # 127.
I've been dreaming about and planning this jacket since February last year. I then proceeded to make it, but found I was extremely unhappy with the fit and design of shoulders and the fabric had far too much brown in it, so it's still in my UFO pile waiting for attention.

While I was bummed about the Burda jacket not working the first time, I'm super chuffed with its style mixed with the structure and design of the Colette Anise.
I'm really pleased with the finish on this jacket and I attribute that to the fantastic instructions in both the Colette Anise pattern and the Anise Companion. I made a straight size 2 with no adjustments for fit, which was very surprising. Next time I may take a little width out of the back, but maybe not. As I hadn't purchased buttons before making my jacket, and because my fabric can fray and unravel, I chose to machine my buttons holes. I also omitted the welt pockets because I don't think I need them.
 
Naturally the main change to the Anise was drafting a new collar and jacket front similar to the Burda jacket. To do this, I used the back of the Anise collar pattern piece to the front notches, then drafted the shape of the ends from the Burda collar. The jacket fronts were re-drafted by laying the Burda pattern over top. Of course I muslined the pattern and tweaked the collar and jacket front further before cutting my wool. I also drafted to under collar to allow for turn of cloth.
 
I purchased this fabric back in August 2012 when I went to Melbourne for a wee catch up with the sewing folk there. I bought 1.8m for $30 from Rathdowne Remnants. It has a lovely weight and isn't too itchy on my skin, which normally doesn't mix well with most wool fabric. Rather than underlining the jacket with muslin, I interfaced all pattern pieces to add stability. The jacket is lined with a remnant of poly charmuese, which feels nice to wear. It would be nice to use silk next time, but this will suffice.

I'm am seriously happy with this jacket. I have attempted to make winter jackets before, but this by far is my best made, fitted and styled wool jacket ever! Now all I need is the temperature to drop a little :)

Cost:
Pattern: Colette Anise & Companion. Gift from friend = Free
Pattern: Burda 09/2009 # 127. Used before = Free
Fabric: 1.8 m wool on sale from Rathdown Remnants = $30
Lining: 1.5m charmuese remnant from stash, but say $10
Interfacing: $15
Shoulder pads: $3
Thread: from stash
Total: $58

24 comments:

  1. Oh wow! Now that is a BEAUTIFUL jacket. That work really paid off. You will love it for years. Amazing.

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  2. SO worth the effort - it looks fantastic. The collar is perfection, and much more grown up looking than a peter pan, and the fabric looks spot on too. I want one!

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  3. This is gorgeous! What a lovely jacket!

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  4. Ahhh I love it! I really dislike Peter Pan collars, but love this jacket, and I'm so glad you were able to make it work for you! I looks fab :)

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  5. I am not a big Peter Pan collar fan either. I love your new jacket. Wow you are organised. I can't get motivated for autumn things yet!

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  6. I agree, the collar is a little more grown up. Thanks!

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  7. I tend to do a bit of out of season sewing. I wish I could called it organized, but I think I'm just bored with the current season. Thanks for your comment!

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  8. What a gorgeous jacket. That will get a lot of wear I am sure. I am not a big fan of the Peter Pan collar either, so I love the mixing of the patterns to get the perfect draft.

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  9. This looks so good, I love your alterations. I am always in full admiration of anyone that tackles the Anise, it just looks like so much work to me. I know what you mean about the weather, definitely not good for photoshoots, who can be bothered getting dolled up in this weather?!

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  10. Gorgeous jacket and it looks fantastic on you. Love the Burda collar and all the work has paid off for a jacket that looks expensive and will last.

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  11. And 'no', I won't be wearing this on Saturday :)

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  12. Thanks Marie. It took a fair bit of time to mash the patterns, but I definitely think its worth it!

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  13. It turned out great Christy, very worthy of your time and effort, usually my pattern mashups never work, but yours is seamless as though the two patterns were meant to be

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  14. Hi Christy! Sorry to message you here, just wanted to let you know that we got moving on the Japanese stock, so that if you visit Saturday you'll be able to see them :)


    Love your Anise Jacket, it looks very professional!

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  15. This jacket was worth the effort. It looks wonderful and stylish.
    The jeans are cool too.

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  16. Congratulations. It is really lovely.

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  17. Thanks Colette. I'll be there for the blog catch up. Cheers Christy

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  18. I'd be in love with this jacket if it were mine too. I think you pulled off your mash-up splendidly. I'm impressed with your commitment to dress-up for winter.

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  19. Wow this turned out so great! I love your collar mod & think it's actually a massive improvement on the original Anise pattern. I've had it in my stash since it was released but never got round to it... you may have just given me a big kick in the pants :)

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  20. Another quality jacket! Great job

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